It works best for cylindrical components and there’s a limit to how small you can go with inner diameters based on your chosen rod size. Of course, this approach isn’t without its challenges. So cylindrical parts like tubes and discs could be printed almost as quickly as your hotend can melt filament. As an added bonus – it could also speed up your printing process as you’re just spinning a slim rod instead of slinging around an entire bed. It can also create super smooth and precise threads as the print head follows their path. This means parts that can stand up to bending forces much better than their upright-printed counterparts.Īdditionally, this rotational action allows for printing functional coil and wave springs – even multi-layer ones – something that’s not exactly feasible with your run-of-the-mill printer. This lets him use the rod as the printing surface, laying down layers axially along the length of an object. The rod is rotated by a stepper motor with a 3:1 belt drive. modified a Creality CR-10 3D printer by removing the bed and installing a regular 8mm linear rod under the hotend. However, demonstrates in his video how this process can be significantly enhanced in terms of mechanical strength and print speed by experimenting with printing on a rotating rod instead of the standard flat bed. FDM 3D printing traditionally operates on a layer-by-layer basis, using a flat bed to construct parts.
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